Consumer goods companies from L’Oréal and Coty to Unilever see value in diversity
FEBRUARY 4, 2017 by: Lindsay Whipp in Chicago
Maybelline’s Big Shot mascara campaign features a model with impeccable eye make-up, thick eyelashes and . . . well-groomed stubble.
Manny Gutierrez (https://www.youtube.com/watc
h?v=PfJD5i3yIdM) last month became just the
second man to be chosen as the face for a make-up advertisement, the first being cosmetics aficionado James Charles, whose Instagram posts caught the eye of Covergirl last year.
2gbJYMu2Kg), who has more than 1m Instagram
followers, and Mr Gutierrez, who has 3m, believe that make-up (http://next.ft.com/content/22c33f2
c-4748-11e6-8d68-72e9211e86ab) should not be
restricted to women. Make-up is “genderLESS and has no rules!”, Mr Gutierrez tells his 2m YouTube subscribers.
That men can be the face of a global make-up brand underscores how large consumer goods companies like L’Oréal (http://markets.ft.com/data/equities/t
earsheet/summary?s=fr:OR) and Coty, which
respectively own cosmetic brands Maybelline and Covergirl, see diversity as an increasingly powerful market. This market includes men using traditionally female cosmetics or a growing array of new products aimed at men.
It is an extension of a male grooming industry worth close to $50bn last year — with moisturisers, pomades, body hair removal products and blemish concealer populating increasing areas of physical and digital shelf space. Retail sales of male grooming products at Procter & Gamble, including its Gillette brand, are more than $11bn, while Unilever, which sells the Axe and Lynx brands, sold nearly $5bn in 2015, the latest figures available, according to Euromonitor.
But sales growth in the male grooming market slowed to 3.1 per cent last year from a compound annual growth rate, or CAGR, of 5.7 per cent in the five years to 2015, according to Euromonitor.
Nicholas Micallef, a beauty and personal care analyst at Euromonitor, says the men’s grooming market will not match the women’s market anytime soon. “Scope for growth exists in dynamic markets
Underscoring the gap between men and women, globally men’s per capita spend on grooming products was $6.50 in 2015, compared with $58.50 for women, Euromonitor says. Although that is a large gap, the boundaries separating male and female-specific products are not always clear. Some products are unisex, some men use products — such as concealer — that are found in the women’s sections of retail outlets, while some women, in Brazil for example, use men’s razors for shaving their legs.
The slowdown in growth for male grooming products is partly explained by lacklustre economic growth, analysts say. Unlike women, who count beauty products as essential items, for many men, particularly those with families, male grooming items — with the exception of razors — more easily drop off the shopping list when money gets tight.
Brazil, a top male grooming products market, had been a particularly bright spot, having enjoyed a 16 per cent CAGR increase in the five years to 2015. But as the nation’s economy struggles in a deep recession, growth in 2016 is estimated at 4.6 per cent to $6.79bn. In western Europe, where high
1913cdd2-b7c5-11e6-961e-a1acd97f622d)in
Mediterranean countries such as Spain persist, growth has decelerated to a 0.7 per cent rise to $12.5bn.
Mr Micallef says the UK is bolstered by high income earners. They have fuelled the growth of small companies such as Beast, which sells men’s grooming products, including shampoos retailing for as much as £27, compared with Unilever’s Lynx brand shampoo, priced at about £5.
However, many lower to middle income men cannot afford such products. Andrew Snavely — founder of US online magazine Primer, which writes about practical style and grooming advice for young men — believes that this demographic is being sidelined.
Sales of male cosmetics are on the rise. And it’s nothing to blush about, says Kathleen Baird Murray
SATURDAY, 4 FEBRUARY, 2017
Male grooming brands such as Unilever’s Axe (http
s://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzTSE6kcLwY)
The introduction of new products, such as L’Oréal’s male deodorant for shaved armpits, combined with acquisitions such as Unilever’s purchase of Dollar Shave Club, the online razor subscription service, as well as the growth of small niche companies, all point to confidence in the longer-term success of the male grooming market.
Mr Snavely says: “For the first time men actually have tailored options for their own unique grooming needs, and that’s only going to continue to expand as social perceptions of male grooming evolves.”
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